too easy to open bolt on no. 4?

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hoover	too easy to open bolt on no. 4?	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (07/06/08 02:10 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tags : None hi guys....been lurking for awhile now....awesome forum, just had to start posting. im very happy i found this site!! thanks in advance to anyone who can help... my ROF no. 4 '43 has an incredibly easy bolt to open.....seems to be way too easy.....i mean, you bump the bolt, it opens like a lightening bolt.... my old lithgow no.1 has a smooth action that operates as intended i believe.....i am familiar with these bolts being easy to operate, but i think this one may be a little too easy...any ideas?
Skeyed		#1	[-]
Posts: 3858 (07/06/08 02:24 PM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Is this opening when fired or not? Explain, when you fire it, it should be different than when you just operate with out ammo or firing it. skd
hoover	easy open bolt	#2	[-]
Posts: 2 (07/06/08 03:22 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	im sorry, i guess that would have been important.....im experiencing this when the gun is just cycled with no ammo....it is a little tougher when fired...it flicks open whether its empty, or has a live cartridge in it...also, i noticed its missing the lower screw oh the rear of the cocking piece as well....
tep0583		#3	[-]
Posts: 410 (07/06/08 09:45 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	If the bolt is "cocked" at the time the bolt is opened, it is normal. If the bolt is not cocked, it should have to be opened manually. If I'm not mistaken, this is due to the "cock on close" opration of the Enfield.
hoover		#4	[-]
Posts: 6 (07/07/08 12:35 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	yeah, it happens when its cocked.....i just thought it weird...if i even bump the bolt....it flies open....i understand the cocking/extaction of the enfield....my wrist can inadvertantly touch the bolt and the bolt flies open and ejects the round!!....my old lithgow no 1 opens easily and smoothly, but you actually have to raise the bolt handle to open...much like a normal bolt action of any kind...if my no4 handle raises a quarter to half an inch...it flies open,,seems to easy to me....was just wondering if anyone knows of something being worn/broken/missing that would cause this....thanks for listening to me guys
altair4		#5	[-]
Posts: 5 (07/07/08 10:24 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	There is a perceived issue with Enfield's both No.1Mk3 and No.4Mk1's known as bouncing bolt. Were upon, pulling the trigger on a cocked rifle with empty chamber the bolt will "bounce" up a bit. This is normal as dozens of rifles I've looked at gun shows and shops, along with my two Enfields, behave in the same manner. However, if you fire these same rifles with a cartridge chambered the bolt does not "bounce" up. Like the 30-40 Kraig, Enfield's are known for their smooth bolt action.
temperflash		#6	[-]
Posts: 143 (07/07/08 08:16 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Its a side effect of the proof testing. The Enfield is expected to "Set" its locking lugs evenly during proof testing. I don't remember for sure but I think three proof loads are fired. These may not all be of the same pressure but I seem to remember the figure of 58,000 PSI being given, the system used does not give the same value as US pressure tests. The Figures given for the standard Compressed Black Powder loading was only 38,000 PSI. Cordite pressures were around 35,000 PSI for the round nosed bullets and 39,000 for the Mk 7 when loaded with Cordite but Nitrocellulose loadings were loaded to somewhat higher pressures. Tarage tables were mentioned so I would guess these were in Copper units converted to PSI. Those are WW1 (No.1)figures, WW2 figures (No.4) may not be the same. The three setting shots were found to cause a very slight angle to form at the mating of lug and locking surface. This was found to make it a bit easier to open the action after firing and contributed to speed of operation. Of course any action that showed too much of a bevel wouldn't pass final inspection. I've seen a few No.1 actions which still had a visible upset of metal on the receiver surface at the right hand locking surface, this would usually be ground down at some point. When cold blued the area around the right side surface will turn darker than the rest of the receiver, on the left side a darkened Spot will show on the outside at the point where the lefthand locking recess sits. This is from spot heat treatment of those areas to reduce wear while leaving the receiver body springy. Very different from the methods used on Mauser actions. Last Edited By: temperflash 07/07/08 08:57 PM. Edited 4 times.
hoover		#7	[-]
Posts: 7 (07/08/08 06:18 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	ty for the extra tidbit of info....the 18.5 ton mark on the side of the barrel...maybe this is what youre referring to? was this proof test done after the rifle was made? or was it done before the rifle was ever released from the armoury? i have cycled a few no. 4's....they were very smooth, but you had to open the bolt with minimal effort....this one requires absolutely NO effort....i guess i just need to keep the safety on (good idea), and accept its ease! ty very much for anyones input, i appreciate it
temperflash		#8	[-]
Posts: 148 (07/13/08 04:13 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I just remembered something you might want to try. Before I replaced my very worn and pitted non matching bolt the handle would raise a bit everytime the trigger was pulled whether firing a live round or dry firing a dummy. The mainspring was a bit corroded so I looked for a replacement at the local surplus store. They had nothing marked for the Enfields but they had a box of odd springs that weren't tagged. I found one that looked like the Enfield spring and tried it out. The bolt lifting problem went away. I then noticed that the new spring was wound in the opposite direction than the old spring. After replacing the bolt body with a new condition one from Springfield Sporters a couple of years later on, same time as i got the No.3 bolthead, I decided to keep my odd spring. Practically every Enfield I've fired has shown some bolt lift except mine with its backwards wound spring.
TikiRocker		#9	[-]
Posts: 272 (07/14/08 02:08 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Sounds stupid but also check that your bolt head isn't wound off a turn ... this has been the culprit more times than I could mention for some people.